May 18 – Snaefellsness here we come. We
headed to the north coast of the peninsular, through the now familiar but
always welcome spectacular twisted mountain scenery on both sides. At the top
we headed left around the coast, firstly to a fishing village called
Grundarfjordur. The main attraction here was a “layer cake” peak, broad base
and peaking at the top. It was in site of a really pretty waterfall, and I think
we have captured both in one photo. We pressed on, rounding the corner to the
western end of the peninsular, stopping at one of the few white sand beaches in
Iceland – most of the beaches are black sand, black pebbles, or volcanic rock.
To us the sand wasn’t white, but more like black sand trying to look white with
pale sand mixed in. The locals are so proud of it that we didn’t make any
derogatory comments. This was closely followed by a visit to another beach,
tiny black pebbles and strange contorted rock structures leading down to
another beach. There were four large boulders on the beach, varying from 27
kilograms through to over 100. Decades ago they were used to test the strength
of fishermen who wanted to be oarsmen on the boats. You had to able to lift at
least the 54 kg one. It was a really interesting beach with some very
attractive lakes in depressions in the surrounding rocks. Continuing on, we
visited very small settlement of Arnstappi to wonder at some impressive rock
stacks in the ocean just offshore, Iceland’s only (last) completely black
church at a tiny place called Budir, and hectares of lava fields along the
plains between the mountain range and the sea. We passed another large icecap
(with obligatory volcano beneath) called Snaefelsjokull. We were told at the
National Parks office that it was still active, but it was so carefully
monitored that they would have around two years notice to prepare for any
threatening eruption. The only unknown would probably be whether it intended to
blow vertically or out sideways. Not a very comforting choice. We retired to
our hotel to prepare for the next day, our last in Iceland.






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| The waterfall/peak combination outside Grundarfjordur |
| From the top of that last crater |
| Another scree mountain slope |
| The black church at Budir |
| Howard on top of the Eldborg crater |
| Lava and a bit of green foliage showing |
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| More Icelandic horses |
| The 'strength' stones |
| Snaefelsjokull |
| Did it! Happy now. |

May 19 – Our last full day to soak up
Icelandic treasures. We have enjoyed driving past field after field with small
herds of long-maned, hardy looking Icelandic horses. We wondered why there were
so many, and were told that they were owned for any or all of riding for
pleasure or business, breeding, sale locally or overseas, or to be eaten. We
have enjoyed the thousands of waterfalls, from small to very big and everything
in between. All the locals have been very friendly and courteous, and nothing
has been too difficult for them. The best has been the variety of volcanic
activity landscapes, which is what we came to see. We had one more crater to
climb on our last day – it is called Eldborg, and is on a farm between our last
hotel and the capital Reykjavik. It was a one hour walk on a rocky track
through a lava field, followed by a 30 metre climb up the side of the crater.
It was a really good view over the surrounding landscape, including the
remnants of two smaller craters nearby. It must have been a turbulent time when
they all went off. We continued on into Reykjavik for our last night. We spent
a couple of hours walking around the centre of the old township, trawling
through bookshops, laughing at the window display for The Phallological Museum
with its many variants on how to use the good old penis shape for useful
household and sartorially inclined items. We had a walk back along the waterfront,
a relaxing Happy Hour in our hotel, and finishing off with our first television
for a week.
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| Reykjavik waterfront park |
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| Last look from our hotel window |
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| The Phallological Museum window |
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| Newish traditional apartment building |
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| Not new |
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| Apartment blocks well back from the waterfront |
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| Not only the young advertise sartorial elegance |









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