May 16 – Today was back to overcast
weather, and was to be a longish day on the road to another fishing village
called Patreksfjordur, and you guessed correctly that it is situated on another
fjord. On the way we stopped at a spectacular waterfall (yes, another one)
called Dynjandi. It consists of seven separate falls, starting from the top and
spreading out as it fell, then branching off into smaller falls, one being a
really powerful one. Notwithstanding the fierce wind, we climbed a rocky
pathway alongside the falls to get to a point near the top. To say it was exhilarating
would be an understatement. On the way down the exhilaration turned to scary,
as we felt that on lifting a foot to negotiate the next step, we would be blown
off into space on one side or the waterfall on the other. We continued on, becoming
more aware of lots of smaller waterfalls plunging down from the heights as a
result of continuing snow melt from the heights. This day involved a lot more
up and down hills than previously – much more taxing for the driver, especially
since a lot of it was on gravel and the roads were quite steep. We arrived at
Patreksfjordur, a really pretty little village where we had an excellent small
hotel with super friendly staff. We wanted to do a lengthy trip out to a range
of cliffs called the Latrabjarg Cliffs, the site of one of the largest bird
nesting spots in Europe. However the road out there involved around 50 kms of
rough gravel (not yet fixed after the winter) and apparently most of the birds
hadn’t yet arrived from wherever they had spent summer. Instead we went only
part of the way and attempted to visit a beach of all places. Most of the
beaches are just strips of large rounded pebbles – no sand in sight. We drove
over a mountain to get there, but the descent on the other side looked more
than scary for steepness and a gravelly road. We adopted the older, more
conservative person’s approach, turned around, and headed for the hotel.
Another day of fabulous scenery ticked off.
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| A first view of Dynjandi. |
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| One of our steep mountainous climbs |
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| In Patreksfjordur they steam clean the footpaths |
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| Patreksfjordur |
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| On the road to Snaefellsnes |
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| Dynjandi |
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| Snow wall |
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| Lava scene on way to Snaefellsnes |
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| Another lava scene on our way to Snaefellsnes |
May 17 – Today involved a very long drive.
Originally we were to drive about 60 kms to a port to catch a ferry across a
very wide stretch of ocean to a town on the northern side of the Snaefellsness
Peninsular, our next destination. However, in between booking and now, the
ferry had been taken off our route and sent somewhere else. So we had a 350 km
drive in front of us. It doesn’t sound like much for Aussie drivers, but it
needs to be said that the roads are very curvaceous, the wind is strong, there
are long stretches of steep up and down gravel road, and speed limits vary from
90 down to 20. Howard did a good stretch of the driving first up, having
overcome apprehension, and also managing to not frightening the pants off Irene
in the process. We covered the distance without mishap, and arrived at our
destination, yet another wonderful little hotel called the Rukjandi Hotel,
fairly new, and in the middle of nowhere. As we had arrived early, we took off
to a popular town on the Peninsular called Stykkisholmur. For any readers who
have watched the Ben Stiller version of The Secret Life of Walter Mitty, it is
the town where the helicopter scene takes place. We had to ask a few people but
finally located exactly where the scenes had been shot. It was an interesting
side trip but the wind was bitterly cold. This was especially so on top of a
small island that had been connected to the mainland by a short road. The whole
island was constructed (by nature) of broken columns of basalt – most impressive
but freezing at the top. We headed back to the warmth of our hotel, heated
geothermally, to plan the following day. This was to be spent driving around
the Snaefellsness Peninsular and National Park – a region abounding in
interesting and spectacular sights.
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| Stykkisholmur harbour and Rock |
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| Stykkisholmur church |
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| This evening's view from our window at Rukjandi Hotel |
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