Bodh Gaya – Varanasi – Delhi - Home -
Almost forgot, we had a mini drama collecting our receipts from the office/reception. Misunderstandings about what money to be attributed where, but we made it to the airport with plenty of time. In fact, our flight was late arriving. Eventually after having our documents checked and re-checked, it was time to board and what a comic surprise awaited us. First impression – we’d boarded a railway carriage. The container (for want of a better description) looked dishevelled with bits of cloth and paper hanging off seats and overheads. People were seated everywhere and anywhere, we almost had to fight for our seats – although we’d not been seated together we did end up sitting together after a couple of well-heeled gents vacated the row where my seat was. We didn’t realise it but Varanasi was the next stop. Many people alighted, again it felt like a railway carriage, I almost expected people to come crashing aboard before those getting off had a chance to get to the doors. Then, what seemed more like 500 than 50 extra passengers, boarded and scrambled for seats and became more boisterous as their loud demands weren’t met instantly. The two attendants had absolutely no hope and sorting out this rabble took more than the ten minutes allowed for boarding. What a fitting finale to this India trip – being in the centre of a comedy sketch. The entire journey from Bodh took maybe two hours with not so much as a cup of water handed out. Didn’t I mention elsewhere that on one Indian flight I had to visit the toilet and found it quite disgusting and with not one scrap of paper to be found? Well, I couldn’t imagine what the facilities would have looked like on this crate. We made it and for the last time, Delhi Airport was a welcome refuge. I had convinced Howard that there was an airport hotel here and for him not to go back to the “fuel tunnel” hotel for the night. So we found reception and booked in. I wasn’t allowed beyond reception so we spent our last hour together over a lovely cup of coffee (yes, probably the first one) provided by the equally lovely receptionist. After goodbyes and Howard asking me to behave, I made my way to Departures for the usual snake line wait. There, each pusher inner made my frustration grow until finally I let loose on yet another queue jumper to get in line like the rest of us, to no avail of course but having stood second in line for what seemed ages while people collecting staff tickets (yes, that’s what the counter headboard read) moved straight across to the check-in counter. I knew that I was tired and crotchety and should just shut up and go with the flow and eventually arrived in the departure lounge for the 11.30pm take off. No-way was I going to sleep but can I just say that Singapore Airlines are the best. Can’t remember the flight to Singapore except that it must have been relaxing. We must have been fed because I do remember enjoying more than one meal on the way home. Singapore Airport, though not as dazzling as Bangkok is still an adventure and easy to navigate. With little time between flights, I did the promised duty free for our smoker friend back in Oz then found a spare, out of the way seat in the departure lounge where I could cough and splutter in peace. Even so, a couple of women who had sat close by got up and moved away. I’d supposed that telling them I wasn’t contagious wouldn’t have helped. On the next flight my seat right at the backend of the plane which out of the way, but a window seat about which I had a little whinge but the fellow next to me was so pleasant and understanding we had a good time. This man was especially helpful when the plane took off in a storm and I feared for my life as the thing violently shook its tail. He explained this was normal down the back end. It was fully half an hour before we were through the storm clouds and on an even keel. Can’t say enough about the cabin crew and the quality of their caring, I even did a bit of duty free shopping on board! In between coughing fits of course.
Arrived in Sydney about 7.30pm – Besieged by intrusive duty free shops through which one must walk, Sydney airport being a shopping mall these days, on the way to Immigration but, from then, no hassle and soon I was on the way to the hugely expensive train to Central Station where I would catch a mountain train. The train services to the mountains aren’t brilliant and the next was due to leave at 10.00pm. The train to our nearest town, Katoomba, where I would be certain of a late night taxi, would take just over two hours. There were just enough people travelling all the way to Katoomba to let me feel comfortable with being alone. I only had the one trolley bag and my day pack to haul around. Katoomba was deserted, cold and shrouded on fog. Nothing new with that, and the taxi stand was deserted, but I knew that cabs did operate all night here so there was nothing for it but to stand and wait. One other woman was there and she was so kind as to usher me into the first car that came along. The journey home was nearly over and I can tell you that I fell into bed soon after arrival. I won’t carry on with my recovery which spanned the time until Howard’s return except to say that I was lucky enough to get a doctor’s appointment the following day. Perhaps my croaky, failing voice helped! Now, I will carry on with Howard’s trip diary:
Tuesday 11 October
Not a good sleep in my little box air-con freezing. Better than Hotel Lhomod. Good flight to Hyderabad in new A320. 4 hour wait for plane to Visakhapatnam. Met by Appala Raju (AR) and Jyothi (J) at airport and driver with car. Shopping first, a bit of a shock as I had to seemingly choose four days food. Got some fruit and soups etc. 30 kms first to Kothavalasa then out to Kantakapalli. Met with children, dinner then chatting with the “bosses”. Cook really looking after me.
12 October
Hearty breakfast then over to school to see the kids – 2 classes. Male teacher Ramesh, really likable. Female teacher shy. In to Kantakapalli for money and visit to shelter near station. Run by young couple, both ex-Platform kids. Both HIV positive (both dormant). Have young son at Kant, he is clear. Spent afternoon on computer after power came on at 2. Watched children playing cricket until dark. Had a beer with AR.
From an email Howard sent home "mentioned to Marie that a generous friend in Katoomba gave us money to spend in India. We have given 500 to PCS – they spent the money on a DVD, sandals and blankets for the children and put the balance towards new batteries for the power supply. Irene and I (without Irene’s consent yet ) have put in the balance and from Saturday PCS will have power when there is a blackout. We may also help with a small fridge for the guest room a little later. It will be primarily for His Nibs’s medications when the Highness descends on Kantakapalli. It will keep the meds out of the line of sight of the children. Who knows what would happen if a child took some – they may go bald!( “His Nibs – is the founder of Platform Kids, John McCulloch and he is bald)"
13 October
It’s great watching the children doing their washing, watering gardens and other early morning chores. I have two minders, Narasimha and Santosh Kumar, both older boys. Vijaya Lakshmi (one of the older girls) also takes care of me. Watched prayers with accompanying drumming by a talented young guy. Watched endless number game kile bingo that they play for a small pot of rupees. Easy day with lots of reading.
14 October
Howard and Co., took the children on a picnic day and this is his report.
PKFI – Brief report on picnic We booked two jeeps for the day plus a small car for the Royalty. Everyone bundled in at 6.30 am and we headed for the station. Sadly we were not able to make reservations, so we all had to rush for the nearest available carriage on an already crowded train. I guessed we were spread over three or four carriages. I was with the couple who run the shelter and three of the boys.
I had to stand for the first 2.5 hours, and passing through tribal areas, more and more unruly tribal women got on. I was getting very tired. I knew AR was worried about me. He then appeared and called out that he had a seat for me in another carriage.
I forced my way out, but in my mistaken hurry to run along the platform, I tripped on someone’s shoe and went sprawling onto the concrete. Luckily I got my hand under my head to cushion the fall, so got a few abrasions and bruised two toes. People rushed to help me. Luckily few from PCS saw it happen – it wasn’t elegant. By the time I got to the seat I was a wreck. However, the next hour enabled me to start enjoying the scenery and regain my equanimity. Also I was where most of the children etc had gravitated to at last – a mixture of welcome smiles and horror at the blood on my hand.
We reached Araku Park and rejoined the vehicles – they had the food. After a great lunch from our fabulous cook, the children went wild. First the playground – even though most of the gear had been vandalized, it didn’t worry our lot a bit. Then they found the Krishna Parvathi fountain, and more squealing and splashing was the order of the day. We moved on. First stop was the lookout over the magnificent Araku Valley. For Irene’s benefit, the park is in the Eastern Ghats. We had already travelled over the Western Ghats earlier in our journey – it’s similar spectacular scenery.
Next stop was a small waterfall. The kids loved it, and a couple of the older boys were allowed to jump into a swimming hole – they had such fun. Our third stop was the Boorla Caves – a massive cavern descended into by many many many steps. Santosh Kumar and one other lovely young woman with good English took control of me, fearing I would take another spill. “Careful Uncle, watch out Uncle”. We then continued on across the plain towards home.
Unfortunately some of the younger boys started to take turns at throwing up, so we had to stop every twenty minute or so to clean up – when I say we, Royalty just observed. At one stage Jyothi had 7 children in trouble. We got home at 7Pm. The children loved it. Some went straight to bed, others got their second wind. It was a great day.
Last photos
https://picasaweb.google.com/irenewheatley/PKFPicnicDay?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCMPVu_6cj_L1wgE&feat=directlink
15 October With the final $500 from our “Julia” Inner Light money, Howard arranged to buy batteries which would supply enough power to light up the rooms at night during the recurrent power outages. Today a slow one. Most of the day taken up waiting for battery installation then wiring repairs. By 5.00pm system back in operation and working well. Last beers on balcony with AR.
From one of Howard’s few emails home; You will also be pleased to know that part of the battery installation drama involved cleaning up a lot of suspect wiring. We got an electrician in for the afternoon.
16 October
6.00am departure for airport with J & AR. Sad farewell to children. Easy flights to Hyderabad, then on to Bangalore. Meter taxi out to Presidency Hotel – reasonable hotel although very basic service.
17 October
Meter taxi into the city, got money, had some awful food at Coffee Day. After doing a circuit of the whole place (on wrong advice) got back to the point where I started and found bus for CKPalli (Chennekothapalli). Easier departure from city than for Mulbagal and 3.5 hours journey. Found a young guy to phone Timbaktu Collective (www.timbaktu.org/) for me and they came to collect me on a scooter. Then car out to TC settlement – it’s grown beyond recognition. Buried in greenery. Had nice meal the collapsed on rock hard bed by 8.30pm.
18 October
Picked up at 9.00am. Met with two interns and we had a presentation on TC. I was also given the 2010/11 Annual Report. Met briefly with Bablu (Ganguly, the founder of TC). Then went on a walking tour with Mani; first Dharani Farmers Co-Op to look at ground nut and millet processing. Compact but productive. Sad to see ground nut crop reduced by 60% due to lack of rain. Then Women’s Alternative Banking Scheme – another success story. After lunch we were taken to the Children’s Resource centre (very innovative) and finally after another scooter ride, I ended up at the TC alternative school. Students were doing gardening! Had a pre dinner walk up into the mountains. Collected some quartz. Disturbed sleep because of parties next door. Asked them to move on.
19 October
Easy morning – read interesting environmental alternative. Had a walk into CKPalli and back. After lunch, dropped off at small bus station. Bus took back roads, not the highway, so it was a long slow trip – 4.5 hours. Night time at bus station – in a jungle! Long autorik trip out to Augustine’s guest house at Cooke Town – a drama with finding No. 1!? A really nice place though. On my own for the night. Not a good sleep – noise, plumbing.
20 October
Up early to pack. Augustine arrived and we had a good chat about CAA (Howard has known Augustine for years and they first met when A worked for Community Aid Abroad. When that project folded, A continued the work as Community Aid Association. We’d recently met up out at Grama Vikas and Augustine invited us to come visit him) He would like me to be part of the Oz team. Told us a great story about a stolen money belt belonging to one of the intern students. Farewell and taxi over to Coffee Board Layout (to meet up with Pavithra and family plus retrieve the rest of our luggage). 90 minutes of emails, almost p to date. Banked AR’s 5000rupees then up to Pavithra’s apartment. Mother in law, aunties and others here for Puja. Couldn’t repack properly, sadly, missed Pavithra – still at work. Taxi out to airport. No exchange desk so will have to keep rupees for John (McCulloch – probably the next to go to India). Next stop, Colombo, Sri Lanka New Moon hotel – only just! Costly pick-up. Repacked and showered ready for 8.00am start.
21 October
Driver Samasiri picked me up at 8. Very nice chap and careful driver. Headed out and climber higher towards the N.E. Stopped for lunch at St. Clair Tea Estate. Nice view of Devon Falls – very impressive. Good lunch and further on to N.E. Staying at Windsor Hotel. Quite old but serviceable. No TV or fridge but can get wine for $4 a glass with dinner. Sri Lanka much, much cleaner than India. Also almost no horn honking, only very occasionally and then, short beeps.
22 October
5.30 am start for Horton Plains National Park, climbing ever higher to around 2000metres. Along the way many small market gardens, then beautiful Oz eucalypt forest. H.P. pricey but nice walk through grasslands and forest. Good views from mini world’s End then Greater World’s End. Obligatory tour of tea factory, bought tea, lunch at Rambodo waterfall. Staying at Hotel Swisse. Terrible night with fever, nightmares and mental confusion. In morning, fever had passed but very tired and weak. Cancelled all visits and headed for Anuradhapura. Stopped at Spice Gardens for a herbal massage. Stopped for lunch but no appetite so took meal away. Arrived at 4.00pm. Saw doctor, got medication including antibiotic. Slept for hours. Tissawewe Grand Hotel, owned by Quickshaws (‘Shaws is the tour company we used in S.L. Howard was the only guest that night and all the staff paid particular attention to him. They all also lined up the following morning for tips, which Howard thought was a bit rude, expecting him to cover all of them).
Monday, 24 October
Feeling better, medications working. Our of 4 roads to Horowpothana, 3 closed for useless security. Picked up at hotel and out to village. Met with family and ChildFund staff for talk and snacks. As usual, Tharustuka so shy. Did tour of Sehoal, then visit to Caccel Temple. After that Lunch! Difficult for me, more talk, gift from Th, then back to Anuradhapura where driver took me around some of the ancient ruins without having to pay – yippee!
25 October
7.30am start for Colombo. Terrible road for first 15 kms. Driver took me via the coast road to show me some beaches. First was Chawla – a terrible place. I requested that we give Negombo a miss and go straight to Taj Hotel in Colombo for lunch. Met with Bradford friends, Joe and Lourdes, very nice arfternoon. Tried to find Philatelic Bureau (to buy stamps for Krishan in Jaipur) but useless. Samasiri drove me back out to New Moon for sleep, shower and repack. Back to airport by 11.15pm for long journey home! Happy to say that when I picked Howard up at the airport next evening, he was looking a little better than he had sounded over the phone recently.
Observation
If I never see another big, bushy, black moustache, my life will be complete. So ends the 2011 Asia adventure. I was sorry to have missed the last two weeks, especially Sri Lanka as that was meant to be our R&R week.
Our next adventure, back to the northern hemisphere, starts 11 July - Copenhagen, Fareo Islands, Norway, Sweden, Switzerland, Austria, Italy, home 6th October.
Almost forgot, we had a mini drama collecting our receipts from the office/reception. Misunderstandings about what money to be attributed where, but we made it to the airport with plenty of time. In fact, our flight was late arriving. Eventually after having our documents checked and re-checked, it was time to board and what a comic surprise awaited us. First impression – we’d boarded a railway carriage. The container (for want of a better description) looked dishevelled with bits of cloth and paper hanging off seats and overheads. People were seated everywhere and anywhere, we almost had to fight for our seats – although we’d not been seated together we did end up sitting together after a couple of well-heeled gents vacated the row where my seat was. We didn’t realise it but Varanasi was the next stop. Many people alighted, again it felt like a railway carriage, I almost expected people to come crashing aboard before those getting off had a chance to get to the doors. Then, what seemed more like 500 than 50 extra passengers, boarded and scrambled for seats and became more boisterous as their loud demands weren’t met instantly. The two attendants had absolutely no hope and sorting out this rabble took more than the ten minutes allowed for boarding. What a fitting finale to this India trip – being in the centre of a comedy sketch. The entire journey from Bodh took maybe two hours with not so much as a cup of water handed out. Didn’t I mention elsewhere that on one Indian flight I had to visit the toilet and found it quite disgusting and with not one scrap of paper to be found? Well, I couldn’t imagine what the facilities would have looked like on this crate. We made it and for the last time, Delhi Airport was a welcome refuge. I had convinced Howard that there was an airport hotel here and for him not to go back to the “fuel tunnel” hotel for the night. So we found reception and booked in. I wasn’t allowed beyond reception so we spent our last hour together over a lovely cup of coffee (yes, probably the first one) provided by the equally lovely receptionist. After goodbyes and Howard asking me to behave, I made my way to Departures for the usual snake line wait. There, each pusher inner made my frustration grow until finally I let loose on yet another queue jumper to get in line like the rest of us, to no avail of course but having stood second in line for what seemed ages while people collecting staff tickets (yes, that’s what the counter headboard read) moved straight across to the check-in counter. I knew that I was tired and crotchety and should just shut up and go with the flow and eventually arrived in the departure lounge for the 11.30pm take off. No-way was I going to sleep but can I just say that Singapore Airlines are the best. Can’t remember the flight to Singapore except that it must have been relaxing. We must have been fed because I do remember enjoying more than one meal on the way home. Singapore Airport, though not as dazzling as Bangkok is still an adventure and easy to navigate. With little time between flights, I did the promised duty free for our smoker friend back in Oz then found a spare, out of the way seat in the departure lounge where I could cough and splutter in peace. Even so, a couple of women who had sat close by got up and moved away. I’d supposed that telling them I wasn’t contagious wouldn’t have helped. On the next flight my seat right at the backend of the plane which out of the way, but a window seat about which I had a little whinge but the fellow next to me was so pleasant and understanding we had a good time. This man was especially helpful when the plane took off in a storm and I feared for my life as the thing violently shook its tail. He explained this was normal down the back end. It was fully half an hour before we were through the storm clouds and on an even keel. Can’t say enough about the cabin crew and the quality of their caring, I even did a bit of duty free shopping on board! In between coughing fits of course.
Arrived in Sydney about 7.30pm – Besieged by intrusive duty free shops through which one must walk, Sydney airport being a shopping mall these days, on the way to Immigration but, from then, no hassle and soon I was on the way to the hugely expensive train to Central Station where I would catch a mountain train. The train services to the mountains aren’t brilliant and the next was due to leave at 10.00pm. The train to our nearest town, Katoomba, where I would be certain of a late night taxi, would take just over two hours. There were just enough people travelling all the way to Katoomba to let me feel comfortable with being alone. I only had the one trolley bag and my day pack to haul around. Katoomba was deserted, cold and shrouded on fog. Nothing new with that, and the taxi stand was deserted, but I knew that cabs did operate all night here so there was nothing for it but to stand and wait. One other woman was there and she was so kind as to usher me into the first car that came along. The journey home was nearly over and I can tell you that I fell into bed soon after arrival. I won’t carry on with my recovery which spanned the time until Howard’s return except to say that I was lucky enough to get a doctor’s appointment the following day. Perhaps my croaky, failing voice helped! Now, I will carry on with Howard’s trip diary:
Tuesday 11 October
Not a good sleep in my little box air-con freezing. Better than Hotel Lhomod. Good flight to Hyderabad in new A320. 4 hour wait for plane to Visakhapatnam. Met by Appala Raju (AR) and Jyothi (J) at airport and driver with car. Shopping first, a bit of a shock as I had to seemingly choose four days food. Got some fruit and soups etc. 30 kms first to Kothavalasa then out to Kantakapalli. Met with children, dinner then chatting with the “bosses”. Cook really looking after me.
12 October
Hearty breakfast then over to school to see the kids – 2 classes. Male teacher Ramesh, really likable. Female teacher shy. In to Kantakapalli for money and visit to shelter near station. Run by young couple, both ex-Platform kids. Both HIV positive (both dormant). Have young son at Kant, he is clear. Spent afternoon on computer after power came on at 2. Watched children playing cricket until dark. Had a beer with AR.
From an email Howard sent home "mentioned to Marie that a generous friend in Katoomba gave us money to spend in India. We have given 500 to PCS – they spent the money on a DVD, sandals and blankets for the children and put the balance towards new batteries for the power supply. Irene and I (without Irene’s consent yet ) have put in the balance and from Saturday PCS will have power when there is a blackout. We may also help with a small fridge for the guest room a little later. It will be primarily for His Nibs’s medications when the Highness descends on Kantakapalli. It will keep the meds out of the line of sight of the children. Who knows what would happen if a child took some – they may go bald!( “His Nibs – is the founder of Platform Kids, John McCulloch and he is bald)"
13 October
It’s great watching the children doing their washing, watering gardens and other early morning chores. I have two minders, Narasimha and Santosh Kumar, both older boys. Vijaya Lakshmi (one of the older girls) also takes care of me. Watched prayers with accompanying drumming by a talented young guy. Watched endless number game kile bingo that they play for a small pot of rupees. Easy day with lots of reading.
14 October
Howard and Co., took the children on a picnic day and this is his report.
PKFI – Brief report on picnic We booked two jeeps for the day plus a small car for the Royalty. Everyone bundled in at 6.30 am and we headed for the station. Sadly we were not able to make reservations, so we all had to rush for the nearest available carriage on an already crowded train. I guessed we were spread over three or four carriages. I was with the couple who run the shelter and three of the boys.
I had to stand for the first 2.5 hours, and passing through tribal areas, more and more unruly tribal women got on. I was getting very tired. I knew AR was worried about me. He then appeared and called out that he had a seat for me in another carriage.
I forced my way out, but in my mistaken hurry to run along the platform, I tripped on someone’s shoe and went sprawling onto the concrete. Luckily I got my hand under my head to cushion the fall, so got a few abrasions and bruised two toes. People rushed to help me. Luckily few from PCS saw it happen – it wasn’t elegant. By the time I got to the seat I was a wreck. However, the next hour enabled me to start enjoying the scenery and regain my equanimity. Also I was where most of the children etc had gravitated to at last – a mixture of welcome smiles and horror at the blood on my hand.
We reached Araku Park and rejoined the vehicles – they had the food. After a great lunch from our fabulous cook, the children went wild. First the playground – even though most of the gear had been vandalized, it didn’t worry our lot a bit. Then they found the Krishna Parvathi fountain, and more squealing and splashing was the order of the day. We moved on. First stop was the lookout over the magnificent Araku Valley. For Irene’s benefit, the park is in the Eastern Ghats. We had already travelled over the Western Ghats earlier in our journey – it’s similar spectacular scenery.
Next stop was a small waterfall. The kids loved it, and a couple of the older boys were allowed to jump into a swimming hole – they had such fun. Our third stop was the Boorla Caves – a massive cavern descended into by many many many steps. Santosh Kumar and one other lovely young woman with good English took control of me, fearing I would take another spill. “Careful Uncle, watch out Uncle”. We then continued on across the plain towards home.
Unfortunately some of the younger boys started to take turns at throwing up, so we had to stop every twenty minute or so to clean up – when I say we, Royalty just observed. At one stage Jyothi had 7 children in trouble. We got home at 7Pm. The children loved it. Some went straight to bed, others got their second wind. It was a great day.
Last photos
https://picasaweb.google.com/irenewheatley/PKFPicnicDay?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCMPVu_6cj_L1wgE&feat=directlink
15 October With the final $500 from our “Julia” Inner Light money, Howard arranged to buy batteries which would supply enough power to light up the rooms at night during the recurrent power outages. Today a slow one. Most of the day taken up waiting for battery installation then wiring repairs. By 5.00pm system back in operation and working well. Last beers on balcony with AR.
From one of Howard’s few emails home; You will also be pleased to know that part of the battery installation drama involved cleaning up a lot of suspect wiring. We got an electrician in for the afternoon.
16 October
6.00am departure for airport with J & AR. Sad farewell to children. Easy flights to Hyderabad, then on to Bangalore. Meter taxi out to Presidency Hotel – reasonable hotel although very basic service.
17 October
Meter taxi into the city, got money, had some awful food at Coffee Day. After doing a circuit of the whole place (on wrong advice) got back to the point where I started and found bus for CKPalli (Chennekothapalli). Easier departure from city than for Mulbagal and 3.5 hours journey. Found a young guy to phone Timbaktu Collective (www.timbaktu.org/) for me and they came to collect me on a scooter. Then car out to TC settlement – it’s grown beyond recognition. Buried in greenery. Had nice meal the collapsed on rock hard bed by 8.30pm.
18 October
Picked up at 9.00am. Met with two interns and we had a presentation on TC. I was also given the 2010/11 Annual Report. Met briefly with Bablu (Ganguly, the founder of TC). Then went on a walking tour with Mani; first Dharani Farmers Co-Op to look at ground nut and millet processing. Compact but productive. Sad to see ground nut crop reduced by 60% due to lack of rain. Then Women’s Alternative Banking Scheme – another success story. After lunch we were taken to the Children’s Resource centre (very innovative) and finally after another scooter ride, I ended up at the TC alternative school. Students were doing gardening! Had a pre dinner walk up into the mountains. Collected some quartz. Disturbed sleep because of parties next door. Asked them to move on.
19 October
Easy morning – read interesting environmental alternative. Had a walk into CKPalli and back. After lunch, dropped off at small bus station. Bus took back roads, not the highway, so it was a long slow trip – 4.5 hours. Night time at bus station – in a jungle! Long autorik trip out to Augustine’s guest house at Cooke Town – a drama with finding No. 1!? A really nice place though. On my own for the night. Not a good sleep – noise, plumbing.
20 October
Up early to pack. Augustine arrived and we had a good chat about CAA (Howard has known Augustine for years and they first met when A worked for Community Aid Abroad. When that project folded, A continued the work as Community Aid Association. We’d recently met up out at Grama Vikas and Augustine invited us to come visit him) He would like me to be part of the Oz team. Told us a great story about a stolen money belt belonging to one of the intern students. Farewell and taxi over to Coffee Board Layout (to meet up with Pavithra and family plus retrieve the rest of our luggage). 90 minutes of emails, almost p to date. Banked AR’s 5000rupees then up to Pavithra’s apartment. Mother in law, aunties and others here for Puja. Couldn’t repack properly, sadly, missed Pavithra – still at work. Taxi out to airport. No exchange desk so will have to keep rupees for John (McCulloch – probably the next to go to India). Next stop, Colombo, Sri Lanka New Moon hotel – only just! Costly pick-up. Repacked and showered ready for 8.00am start.
21 October
Driver Samasiri picked me up at 8. Very nice chap and careful driver. Headed out and climber higher towards the N.E. Stopped for lunch at St. Clair Tea Estate. Nice view of Devon Falls – very impressive. Good lunch and further on to N.E. Staying at Windsor Hotel. Quite old but serviceable. No TV or fridge but can get wine for $4 a glass with dinner. Sri Lanka much, much cleaner than India. Also almost no horn honking, only very occasionally and then, short beeps.
22 October
5.30 am start for Horton Plains National Park, climbing ever higher to around 2000metres. Along the way many small market gardens, then beautiful Oz eucalypt forest. H.P. pricey but nice walk through grasslands and forest. Good views from mini world’s End then Greater World’s End. Obligatory tour of tea factory, bought tea, lunch at Rambodo waterfall. Staying at Hotel Swisse. Terrible night with fever, nightmares and mental confusion. In morning, fever had passed but very tired and weak. Cancelled all visits and headed for Anuradhapura. Stopped at Spice Gardens for a herbal massage. Stopped for lunch but no appetite so took meal away. Arrived at 4.00pm. Saw doctor, got medication including antibiotic. Slept for hours. Tissawewe Grand Hotel, owned by Quickshaws (‘Shaws is the tour company we used in S.L. Howard was the only guest that night and all the staff paid particular attention to him. They all also lined up the following morning for tips, which Howard thought was a bit rude, expecting him to cover all of them).
Monday, 24 October
Feeling better, medications working. Our of 4 roads to Horowpothana, 3 closed for useless security. Picked up at hotel and out to village. Met with family and ChildFund staff for talk and snacks. As usual, Tharustuka so shy. Did tour of Sehoal, then visit to Caccel Temple. After that Lunch! Difficult for me, more talk, gift from Th, then back to Anuradhapura where driver took me around some of the ancient ruins without having to pay – yippee!
25 October
7.30am start for Colombo. Terrible road for first 15 kms. Driver took me via the coast road to show me some beaches. First was Chawla – a terrible place. I requested that we give Negombo a miss and go straight to Taj Hotel in Colombo for lunch. Met with Bradford friends, Joe and Lourdes, very nice arfternoon. Tried to find Philatelic Bureau (to buy stamps for Krishan in Jaipur) but useless. Samasiri drove me back out to New Moon for sleep, shower and repack. Back to airport by 11.15pm for long journey home! Happy to say that when I picked Howard up at the airport next evening, he was looking a little better than he had sounded over the phone recently.
Observation
If I never see another big, bushy, black moustache, my life will be complete. So ends the 2011 Asia adventure. I was sorry to have missed the last two weeks, especially Sri Lanka as that was meant to be our R&R week.
Our next adventure, back to the northern hemisphere, starts 11 July - Copenhagen, Fareo Islands, Norway, Sweden, Switzerland, Austria, Italy, home 6th October.
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